"The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun"
More from the day when it was ‘just right’. This time a sequence of photos of me, taken by Paul Blackley.
The 14 images shown here, are taken from a sequence of 32 shots that took place over a period of 16 seconds (which was co-incidentally the same time that what was quoted as the wave-period for the swell that day).
