After seven consecutive days of surfing, often very good and sometimes amazing waves (and mostly pretty cold), I’m feeling physically broken but super-stoked. It’s pretty rare to get such a good run of solid clean waves here on the Isle of Wight, and all the hardcore regulars have been making the most of it too, so it’s also been a really social time along the coast, in a week where we said goodbye to one of the funniest and most liked surfers we had. http://wightsurfhistory.co.uk/dave-gray-r-i-p/

Today was the coldest and smallest session of the week, but it was still fun to be out there with the occasional shoulder-high set coming through, and as i was shivering in the car park getting changed afterwards, it was all topped off by having local surfer / photographer and friend Paul Blackley hand deliver a copy of the County Press, with a photo of me surfing at Freshwater Bay on the back page. It’s got a quote from Joe Truman underneath it, but anyone who knows us both won’t get confused by that as he’s a much better surfer.

The funny thing is there was going to be a photo of another much better surfer (Ian Pacey) on the back page in that slot, but for some reason the editor liked the one of me more and chose to run with that instead, Pacey will be gutted as he loves looking at pics of himself surfing 🙂