Two hours of getting pounded in closing out UK beach-break (still wearing a summer wetsuit in October) followed by a large hot-toddy! Well, maybe not quite a cure, but it hasn’t made me feel any worse than i did before.
Huey and Neptune (the surf gods) sent a surprise groundswell yesterday, and despite having a man-cold i just had to get out there on my birthday and try out my new surfboard (I call him big-red, he’s 9’4″ long, 23″ wide, 3″ thick, classic single fin old-school longboard)
Thanks for all the birthday wishes yesterday, this is another shot from my trip to Cornwall last week.
©2010 Jason Swain, All Rights Reserved
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