Wave of the day by Jason Swain. Bad timing for me to get another cold just as a pumping swell arrived on the Isle of Wight for the Easter bank holiday weekend, and although i’ve surfed through a few colds and lurgies this winter, something about this one made me stay out of the water this time. Anyway, trying to forget the torture of seeing good waves and not being able to surf, i looked on the bright side today and managed to get down to the beach with my camera and enjoy a bit of mind surfing and having the time take some surf photos. It seems like every other good swell this year i’ve been so cold from actually surfing that i’ve forgotten about the day job and not taken nearly enough pics.
I’ll take some time and look through all the photos in the next few days, but I knew this sequence would be worth looking at straight away as soon as i saw the wave start to break and watched Alan Reed slide into what was definitely the wave of the day (whilst i was there anyway)
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